Penetrating oil is a tool for the extreme optimist. The lever should move smoothly and easily, not requiring much force before a stone touches, then force on the lever is the grinding pressure. If my guessing is right so far, then you are setting the stones too low if they both contact the blade at the same time. When you lock the adjuster in place at a good height, the blade should be roughly centered in the gap between the stones. The knurled knob looks like the height adjuster for the stones. Think of it as a teeter-totter with a centering spring. The way the lever is arranged, my guess is that there is a spring that holds the shaft in a "neutral" position and that the direction the lever is pushed determines which stone touches the cutter blade. So I will go out on an extremely risky limb here and make some guesses from the photos. Everything from semiautomatic pistols to racing engines. I know nothing about slicers but I have been working on little machines all my life. Can't find anything on this slicer since it is soooo old. Only way to actually grind the edge is to have it in the utmost position when the truing stone doesn't hit.Īny help would be greatly appreciated. Notice the freshly ground blade about 3mm from the actual edge. Does anyone have any ideas on a remedy for these two things? And it doesn't look like it works well at all unless both the grinding and truing stones are hitting the blade. If I only lower the grinding stone to just when it hits the blade about 3mm then the truing stone like like an inch from hitting the blade. When I sharpen with the stones it is sharpening the blade about 3mm from the actual edge as shown in pic below if I lower it enough to hit both the grinding and truing stone. The sharpening assembly unit is at the wrong angle or the blade was custom sharped to a new angle. Was thinking of applying heat but don't know if that would damage anything or even help.Ģ. kroil then lube hasn't made it much better. Any ideas at all how to make that level less resisting? It seems like the resistance is in the sprint area or beneath it where the 2 metal plates combine. Not something I'm too pumped about while a 12" blade is spinning 4 inches from my hand. Its to the point its functional but I need to put some real pressure on it to go. The lever to press is really firm no matter how much I kroil/lube it. These are pics before I cleaned up the bodyġ. Two things I can't figure out is the sharpening assembly and is making me a sand panda. So I got that old berkel gc from like 1960s all cleaned up enough for now and working (I'll probably give it a paint job in the spring).
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